Feliz Navidades! 19-25 Dec 2011

I had been waiting for a parcel of post and other items from my younger daughter and during the last week had stayed in during the day except when had to be out......

As Murphy's Law dictates Los Correos tried to deliver it Tuesday morning....
1. They normally deliver post between 2 and 5..... they must have tried before 12:15 because I got back then.
2. That day was the one day I had to be out.

I knew it was her parcel because the card said addressed to ABUELO (Grandad). The card said to pick it up the day after they tried delivering (.. my Spanish is getting a bit better!). I knew where from and it opens at 8:30. I was there at 8:31 and didn't sleep that night .......  unusual for me.

When I got to the post office they initially would not let me have the parcel as the name was Abuelo and my passport says Francis Hughes. I am not sure if they were joking but I would not play poker with these guys. In the end they passed it over.

The trouble was if I hadn’t had it by Wednesday I was going to have to make a few phone calls..... and further - the numbers I needed were on the letters I was also waiting for so some investigation would be necessary - if I got them I wouldn't need to make the calls. Of course I was really looking forward to the album. If it got lost, the South America photos (also included) could be copied again (she also put my South America photos which are on her laptop but not mine onto a memory stick) but the album with my Grandson would have been difficult to recreate I think.

Christmas itself is not the big event that it is at home. It is big in a proper religious sense but not the commercial fiasco we have. Their big fiasco is indeed 6th January.

I have my turkey leg to roast for Christmas Day, have a more than reasonable amount of San Miguel and I bought a TV. It was surprisingly easy to set up - the free to air channels - but while I thought I might get CNN and/or BBC 24hr News...... none of it. 60 channels - some duplicated as non HD and HD and 15 of them are radio. All Spanish which is good really but it would have been nice to have those 2 mentioned. I reckon I may be able to settle down after lunch to watch "The Guns of Navarone" and/or "The Dambusters" --- in Spanish. My 'favourite' channel so far is one that shows "Poldark" epsiodes (remember those?) .... of course in Spanish.
 

 The last couple of days have been marvellous weather wise. Thick frost in the morning, burned off by 9 (it gets light around 8:30) and on Thursday it reached 22 between 2 and 4pm...... getting colder quickly after that.... but doesn't get dark until after 6:15......... and now we are beyond 21st it will keep getting better.

Although the car is OK I have not ventured too far. My insurance runs out on 14 Jan and having checked quotes I think I am going with a Spanish company. It is similar cost basically but the UK companies want extra for European use  - they won’t say how much until AFTER you have the policy. The Spanish companies of course don't (but will want extra for Uk..... I'll cancel in May) - but they do provide elementary breakdown cover within the cost. So I will go with the Spanish.

Saturday - slightly but only slightly worse for wear..... went for a walk in the old part. Fascinating - there is the original Roman settlement then various bits by the Arabs and then parts from when the Christians took over around 1495. I called in at a taverna there for a cerveza, then on the way back went in to one that I have been frequenting twice a week to get myself known....... and as well as the beer I bought there were free ones for Navidades. I also had the longest conversation yet.... at least a sentence - and understood half of what was said.

Feliz Navidades!

Definite Progress. 12-18 Dec 2011

I achieved three significant things this week.

I went to get my hair cut after Tuesday’s Spanish lesson. As with the corner shops and local bars I hoped to get some conversation. I pretty well only got “si” or “no” to any comment I made. I left with what amounts to a short back and sides. The last time I had one of those was probably 1967 and then it was plastered down with Brylcreem. This time it was sprayed with something........ well something. After 1967 I think the next time I had my hair cut was after 'A' levels in 1971......................... Maybe I'll wait now to 2015..............

I took the car to a workshop in Alhaurin el Grande on Thursday to have the engine management issue diagnosed. The drive there and back around 50 miles each way, was through some stunning mountainous countryside. Difficult on the way down as the sun was still low and although the route is one of the main roads to Malaga it was only just two vehicles wide in places. Apparantly Rick Parfitt of Status Quo fame lives there. I did not see him. The problem turned out not to be serious but could at some point make starting difficult. The parts are on order and I will return in the New Year.

Although I had a broadband internet connection put in a couple of weeks ago I have been having to connect directly through the modem as I have been unable to get the wireless router to work. I had sent notes on the configuration I had set to a friend from the Gospel Choir in Peterborough of which I am a member –and who is a Yoda on these matters. On Friday, talking with him via Skype, we got the router working.

On Saturday I went to a bar in the old part of town. Having ordered my cerveza,  there was a vibe about the other customers. They were all male, 30-early 40 somethings. I may have been wrong and as the bar was among the better of those  I have been in and the cerveza was good I will go again. Of course, young men of that age group and possible persuasion aren’t going to be interested in a curmudgeonly old geezer like me (thankfully) any more than similarly aged young ladies (regrettably) in other taverns I have frequented but it may not be the sort of bar I want to become known as a regular in.

On Sunday afternoon with it being bright and sunny I walked over the Algeciras Road into the hills. It is something of  a maze and tarmac road stops after a while. I have tried various spurs but after a while every one comes to someone’s gate. I thought I had succeeded in keeping on the public track today and had walked nearly an hour and a half before being unable to go further. One then always has to get back - and flat like Peterborough it ain’t. I think I’m getting fitter though. I passed various olive groves where owners were shaking the branches and catching the olives in nets and rotovating between the trees. Very rustic. I have just started reading Thomas Hardy’s “Far From The Madding Crowd” , yet again. Not quite the same rusticity but there are similarities.

The Gospel Choir were singing at the Thorpe Hall Lights of Love event on Sunday evening. The first time I have not been there for 8 years and I sang there with the choir last year. I was sure I had brought a couple of the CD’s with me but looked last night and cannot find them. Instead I found a copy of Brit Floyd’s UK Live 2011 promotion CD. I played that and although they were appearing at such venues as Birmingham Town Hall and the London O2 Arena, I reckon Peterborough’s own Echoes of Floyd are at least as authentic musically – although Brit Floyd’s “Comfortably Numb” I must confess was very good.

Two Bank Holidays. 05 - 11 Dec 2011

There were two Bank Holidays this week and neither on a Monday. The first, on Tuesday was  Día de la Constitución - Constitution Day. The second, on Thursday was for La Inmaculada – The Immaculate Conception. Work Monday, off Tuesday, work Wednesday, off Thursday and work Friday – there was no sign that people made a week of it. Of course they are used to these arrangements.

As a result there was no Spanish class on Tuesday. I walked in to town in case and to see if there was anything specific going on. There wasn’t. There were more people about generally, enjoying the sunshine as it was a very pleasant day. The shops and bars were open as normal.

On Saturday I had a good wander around the Arab parts much of it dating back to the 13^th century and include The Moorish Baths – Baños Arabes. This area is below the Puente Nuevo – The New Bridge, itself built between 1751 and 1793. Even though much lower, there are still great views over The Guadalevin Valley.

On Sunday I had intended taking a good walk up in to the hills across the Algeciras Road. It had rained overnight and although it didn’t rain during the day the very dark clouds threatened a downpour so stayed in and caught up with washing etc.

I had spoken to a couple of my brothers-in-law about the car. They were helpful but it needs looking at. Although I could show the fact that the engine management light is showing there is no way I would be able to understand a Spanish mechanic and have established that the garages – other than the Seat main dealer, don’t speak English. On the good old Internet I found an ex-pat garage that specialises in diagnostics. I spoke to the Irish owner and he will check it out on Thursday. The trouble is the garage is in Coín, about 50 miles away, about 2/3 of the way to Malaga. I hope it gets there. If they have to keep it I shall have to hire a car or stay overnight depending on whether parts are needed and/or available.

The Christmas lights are up in the town but there is little sign of the crazy commercial rush that takes place at home. I have so far only seen one house with obvious decorations – Santa Claus models climbing over the balcony. The shops, while they have some decorations and posters about Christmas offerings are not garish.

Birmingham at last managed another win and Posh a very creditable draw at Leicester. It is an interesting statistic that Posh with no Premiership experience in the squad have scored 25 goals at home while Birmingham with only one of their main strikers not having played at the top level have only scored 25 home AND away combined! I still have not yet managed to get to a Deportiva Ronda game.

Next weeks’ tasks are to get my hair cut…… that should be interesting. I am practicing various obvious phrases with the help of Spanish Dict.com. The other main task of course will involve the car. It would be great to feel reasonably confident about driving to some of the mountain villages. The trip to Coín itself will be interesting but I hope without incident.

The nearest translation of Grumpy Gramps is Gruñón Abuelito.

Connected - sort of. 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2011

I now have a broadband connection. Directly connected to the IDU (Indoor Unit?) it works. I had to buy a router separately. It has to be configured!! Although I can log on to it and go through the configuration routine I just cannot get it right!!! Wasted around 8 hours so far. So I have broadband but currently in one fixed place in the lounge – no wireless. I will persevere.

I had an enjoyable meal with the couple who supplied me with milk last week. There were 4 others, 3 from the Spanish class. The couple have now returned to Tewkesbury but enjoyed their 6 months here and intend returning next year.

I went looking for the supermarket that apparantly always has fresh milk. I was told that it was by the Bus station but could I find it? You wouldn’t think you could hide buses easily. I asked 2 people but although I would understand ‘straight on’, ‘turn left’ and ‘turn right’. I did not understand their replies. I found it. It then became clear and I have checked that what the people I asked were saying is ‘It’s behind you……’. As it turned out, the supermarket wasn’t that close. There was also a slight flaw in my plan. I was walking and about 2 miles from the house so I couldn’t buy what I wanted. I returned next day with the car. It is generally quite cheaper than the one I have been using and not only does it have milk – it also has oven chips!

I don’t have a television but listen to the radio a lot– or at least have the radio on. It does help, I think. I am getting to the point where I am hearing the individual words rather than a constant jumble and can sometimes get the general idea. The sport is crazy though. I cannot follow the commentary at all. Except when a goal is scored. The program is similar in format to Sky’s Gillette Soccer Special. There is a panel that discusses the games and when there is a goal there is a fanfare and commentary goes to the game where the goal has been scored. What you get is ‘Goooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo……..al! Which lasts a full minute at least.

I am keeping busy one way and another. Mooching around, learning where the main shops and places such as the library and so on are. Of course the great thing is that other than the mundane household chores – washing, ironing, keeping the place clean and tidy I do not have to garden (there isn’t one, other than a tree and a couple of rose bushes around the edge of the car port/patio), think about decorating or general maintenance. When I have an issue – like this perishing wireless router, I can keep following it up.

I am also doing a fair bit of walking. Caminando en el campo. Walking in the countryside. It is not flat like Peterborough. Also there is no real beer. The lager though is much better than the lager in the UK. I tried not to drink any to start with and drank coffee instead. With the hills though and the coffee I thought I might be heading for a heart attack so have settled on the San Miguel, some red wine (decent stuff at around 2 Euros a bottle) and only the occasional cup of coffee. I am currently up to around ¾ to an hour walking in any direction then of course the same back.

I do not feel I am making that much progress with the language. The neighbours are friendly but have not gone beyond ‘Buenos dias’ or similar. There are 4 tavernas and 2 small ‘corner’ shops within the sort of distance from Riverside to The Boathouse (my old house to the nearest pub.  I call in to one or the other of the bars every other day and buy such as eggs from the shops. I am trying to get myself known and familiar. Again though, conversation is limited. As soon as folk find it is going to be an effort to go beyond ‘Buenos dias’, ‘ Adios’ that’s what the conversation is limited to. I shall keep trying.

I find that there is always one fly buzzing around being a general nuisance. There is never more than one. Having killed the one, another appears. At first I thought the one was resuscitated but there was definitely a dead one on the floor and another flying around. While sat reading or keying on the laptop they keep annoyingly settling on my head. Tried smacking it but they always get away. They are not so daft. Took me a while to realise why I had a slight headache.

New Friends. 21 - 27 Nov 2011

It may be that affordable broadband is possible. Waiting for someone to contact me . Manana, manana!

Missing my girls… and grandson. It has always seemed to be the case that most of the time one of them is having a bad time, sometimes both are having a bad time. It is rare for both to be having a good time. At the moment one is happy, one is very, very unhappy – and I can’t help.

Picked up and activated my bank debit card. Bought a Spanish mobile phone – in fact 2. Turns out there was a 2 for 1 offer on a Samsung for 19 Euros!. Ideal because my British one is Samsung so the menu and menu structure is much the same. Blue will be for my use, ‘pink’ - I will be able to loan to visitors, loaded with some credit and useful phone numbers. They also came with 3 Euros credit. Next weeks’ task will be to work out how to add credit. I tried over the phone and on-line but although  I turned the menu structure into English, the top up bits are in unintelligible Spanish!

Managed to find out that there are Government sponsored Spanish lessons available. Arranged to meet the Spanish teacher at the Ministry of Education Centre on Thursday. Turned up on Thursday at 9:30. Helped  the teacher with some of his son’s English homework then joined the class….. The class of around 20 are a mix of English, Italian and French with a wide range of Spanish capability but the common language of course is English. My ‘partner’ in group work  was an Italian lady who has been in Ronda for 8 years and appears to be perfectly fluent in Spanish. The classes are 9:30 to 11:00 on Tuesdays and Fridays.

The rain, constant from Saturday stopped on Wednesday. Since then it has been sunny and cool to very warm. Took a walk to the Hermitage – Virgen de la Cabeza Church around 3 miles there and back. Marvellous views of the famous Ronda Tajo (gorge) and the Sierra de Grazalema. I am around one and a half miles from the centre of Ronda on the East Side and in just 400 yards am in the countryside, not dissimilar to The Derbyshire Peaks though nowhere near so many trees but the peaks are significantly higher.

As it was our wedding anniversary I decided to have a decent meal out on Saturday afternoon. Although I had visited this restaurant in the past the meal was not as good as hoped. I bumped into a couple from the Spanish class. They are returning to England next weekend and invited me to Sunday lunch. There will be a few others so there will be the chance to make some connections. One of the things I have had difficulty finding is ….. fresh milk!!! Here were three middle aged Brits, sat in a bar talking in hushed tones about…………………….. where to get fresh milk!!!!! They had a stash in their freezer and agreed to supply me some! At something under 60 we were too young to be hippies, not interested in drugs (… except a reasonable quantity of alcohol) and too old to be punks. Mind you I am very partial to a good blast of the Ramones.

Got back to the house and my washing was dry thanks to the slight wind and warm sun. A lady in her 70’s and who lives nearby rang my bell. My Spanish is just about good enough to understand that she was after my low hanging fruit. In my sort of patio/car port area there is a tree with fruit similar to strawberries. I have not yet established what they are but she wanted some for her sick friend. She left happy.

Settling In. 15 - 20 Nov 2011

It looks like getting broadband internet installed is going to be prohibitively expensive. There is a Euro 199 installation charge and a subscription of Euros 60 per month…… but the contract has to be a minimum 24 months! 

I have a ‘3’ mobile dongle which worked very well in the UK and was told would work over here – it doesn’t. ‘3’ have been sort of helpful but phone calls at 35p/min to make and 11p/min to receive have been expensive with no apparent solution. ‘3’ does not have coverage but you can switch to another network – it seems Orange is the only valid one where I am and although the dongle appears to connect to the network, there is no internet access.I will have to see if I can buy a dongle here – but it seems that coverage generally here is not good.

Free Wi-fi is available in the library and there are a couple of Internet places. Not convenient though.

I also enquired about TV. UK Freeview is available but needs a 1.3m dish installed at around Euros 599. There are TV points around the house and the owner has said all I need is a TV and I will get the standard Spanish terrestrial stations. I won’t bother yet but as Winter progresses it may be worthwhile trying.

I have not yet met any neighbours. When I have seen any they are always scurrying in and are clearly not ready to make contact. I have not seen the neighbours either side at all. I know they are there but do not hear them. On that basis I am sure my CD player with Pink Floyd, Ali Farka Toure, Jan Garbarek, Bob Dylan or Burning Spear can’t be bothering them.

My car seemed OK after its arduous journey but the old engine management light has come on. This has been a fairly constant issue. On 4 or 5 occasions at home I have booked it in for a check only for it to go off on the morning it was to go in. On the one occasion it stayed on, they could not find a problem using the diagnostic gismo and simple reset it. I hope there is not a problem and it seems to be running ok but I don’t want to try a reasonable trip at the moment – in case. Once though, it came on, followed not long after by plumes of smoke and a subsequent £3500 bill – which Saab fortunately agreed to cover 75% of as it was not long out of warranty. That was 50,000 miles ago.

As it happens anyway, I am checking out the local area. The town itself has plenty of interest within walking distance. Walking here though is not like good old flat Peterborough. Going in to town there is a half mile steady downhill then a mile very steep in parts uphill. Having to go in twice a day for various reasons early in the week I think took its toll. This once fit but now approaching elderly chap found the breathing hard, the chest getting a bit tight and the calves and thighs objecting somewhat. Out the other way though isn’t such hard work and there are amazing views only a half a mile away.

Birmingham City 1 Peterborough Utd 1. What a come down! Last year The Blues were beating Arsenal and now can only draw with The Posh – at home. Of course this was one of only 2 (plus if applicable, cup games against Birmingham) that I would want Posh to lose.I was thinking of going to see Deportivo Ronda this afternoon (Sunday). They are in the 9^th league of the Spanish 3^rd tier (??). Probably not even on a par with the likes of Stamford or Solihull Moors. The ground apparently holds 3500, most not undercover. It has been raining steadily and at times monsoon like since around 10:30 on Saturday so have decided to give it a miss.

Peterborough to Ronda. 8 - 15 Nov 2011

It has now been a week since I left Peterborough. On Tuesday 8^th I travelled down to Portsmouth having decided it was best to travel down and stay overnight in case of hold ups on Wednesday  morning. I needed to be at the ferry port by 10:30.

The ferry crossing was very good on the whole. The swell was at its worst during the night at which time being mostly asleep it did not matter much. Being on the ferry from 11:30am Wednesday  until midday Thursday seemed a good opportunity to relax with 3-4 beers. Fat chance! They only had John Smith’s and no way could I drink any of that rubbish!! Settled for a couple of pints of Strongbow cider instead.

Thursday, off the ferry by 13:30 Spanish time. Whenever going abroad the worst traffic is always the early part of the journey from the airport or ferry port. Santander was busy and even with the sat nav, I managed to take a wrong turn in the city centre …..’keep left/right…. Or turn left/right’ is not always obvious which. Once out of the town there was much less traffic than England. Most of the main roads are dual carriageway and for much of the 300 or so miles there was no other traffic at all.

Road numbers are very confusing. Every road seems to have at least 3 numbers and those displayed are not always the one identified by the sat nav. Maybe each time there is a road improvement they rename them but never get round to replacing all the signs…??

The scenery was interesting but nowhere near as spectacular as hoped. It was also 100+ miles before there was any quantity of trees.

The hotel was in Maltida de Plasencia. No street name had been given  and the co-ordinates supplied placed the hotel in the middle of the small town. It was foggy and dark when I arrived. I had to ask in one of the shops and a young man helpfully insisted on leading me there. In South America you just would not let that happen as there are many stories of people being led out of town and robbed. Here it may have been taking a chance but he was good as his word.

Left Maltida de Plasencia on Friday morning for another 300 mile drive. Extramadura again was not as beautiful as expected. Once into Andalucia though, the scenery improved a great deal. Still the trees were mainly evergreens but there was the occasional hillside covered in Autumnal reds/yellows/browns and golds and the mountains and valleys are marvellous.

Arrived 14:30, earlier than arranged. The car had done well. I had taken out extra insurance – fully comprehensive in the UK provides the old green card but third party cover only – I increased the cover to fully comprehensive. I also took AA cover for the duration of the journey. Having taken all that, I did not need it but of course if I hadn’t………  one never knows.

I met up with the agent and then the owner, signed the contract and was in by 5pm.

There is no mains gas, hot water is from a propane gas heater. It had been sunny and 24C in the day but cool at night.  Heating is via electric storage heaters. The trouble of course with these is that by the time you need the heat in late evening, it has largely gone.

On Saturday had to get to the supermarket. Overall it appears that except for fresh meat, fruit and vegetables most other goods are more expensive than in England. Cans such as beans are sold in singles, not cheaper 4 packs. So far I have been unable to find any  oven chips, they only seem to have those prepared ready for dropping into a fryer. A 250g of Flora pro-active costs one and half times as much as a 500g tub in Asda/Tesco/JS/Morrisons.

On Monday I had to present myself at the police station to collect my N.I.E. number applied for when I was here in September. The N.I.E. is a Numero de Identidad de Extranjero – Identification number for foreigners. This enables you to open a bank account which then means you can register with and set up payment for services and utilities etc.

I applied for a bank account and by Tuesday morning all was ready except for my debit card which I can collect next Monday.

On Monday my electricity went off while I went into town and to the police station. It was a total 4 mile walk there and back. Not normally a problem but it absolutely chucked it down and I had not taken my cagoule or umbrella. Got drenched. With no electricity the pump in the basement which should kick in to prevent flooding did not. Fortunately it appeared the rain was not so heavy here. The electricity was back mid afternoon ….. and my beer in the fridge was still cool.

The main thing left to set up is a TV and Internet account/connection. There is a wi-fi connection available but it is not stable. The nearest internet café is in the town centre around a mile and a half mile walk away.